Is My Home Suitable for a Heat Pump?

Key Suitability Factors

• Heat loss: the master number. Everything else feeds it.
• Insulation level: loft, walls, floors. Sometimes modest improvements change the answer entirely.
• Radiator sizing: whether your emitters can deliver at lower flow temperatures, or which need upgrading.
• Space for the outdoor unit: a clear position with airflow, positioned so access around the house is never blocked.
• Property age and construction: a design input, not a disqualifier.

Can a Victorian or 1970s Home Run a Heat Pump Efficiently?

Yes, when the groundwork is done properly. The property types most often written off, Victorian terraces, 1930s semis and solid-wall houses, are exactly the ones on our completed-installs list, running efficiently through full British winters. The difference is never the age of the house on its own. It's whether someone measured it properly and sized the system to it, instead of guessing from the front door. You can see the real efficiency readings from our installs on the winter performance page.

One customer had been told by two separate installers that his home wasn't a good candidate. One suggested a like-for-like boiler. The other quoted a 14kW heat pump anyway without being able to explain why. The heat loss calculation said 9kW. That system has now run a full winter, warm, at a third of his old gas bill.

What A Proper Heat Loss Survey Reveals

A room-by-room, BS EN 12831 measurement of what your house actually needs: the correct system size, which radiators (if any) need upgrading, whether insulation work should come first, and a realistic running-cost projection benchmarked against our real winter bill data. It is the only way to get a definitive answer for your specific home, not a guess based on property type.

If your house is not ready, we tell you. If it is, you will know exactly what it needs and exactly what it costs.